![]() “We didn’t start this to look for big dollars.”įor Warnaco, which manufactures Chaps by Ralph Lauren, White Stag, Olga, Warners and Valentino lingerie, Kelly is “enormously marketable,” Wheaton says. In the U.S., Kelly will ship $250,000 worth of merchandise this season. Linda Wachner, president and chief executive officer at Warnaco, expects Kelly’s worldwide wholesale volume will reach $8 million to $10 million in its first full year backed by Warnaco, up from $900,000 when Kelly financed the line himself. Warnaco’s Patrick Kelly operations based in the corporation’s New York office, believes it will be profitable very quickly. Yet the firm has never quite made it out of the red and was supported by Kelly’s freelance work with such firms as Benetton and Victoire, which is a better-price French rtw manufacturer. Since he started his business with partner Bjorn Amelan in 1985, sales of Kelly’s rtw have been meteoric - doubling each season, according to the designer. “His future depends on how successful he is at continuing to be who he is.” “Patrick Kelly is great because he doesn’t take himself, or fashion, too seriously,” says another retailer. It’s much more sophisticated, but also expensive for his very young customer.” “As good as it is,” she adds, “it’s not ready to go next to Ungaro and Valentino. She says his spring-summer ’88 collection was high quality and “the best he’s ever done, but prices were as much as twice his usual range. “Warnaco seems to be pushing him into better apparel,” says Sydney Bachman, vice president and fashion director at Bergdorf’s, New York. The result is more sophisticated, diversified Patrick Kelly collection, but buyers are worried he may be losing sight of his customer and that the line is getting too expensive. Warnaco has been able to smooth out manufacturing problems and has helped clear up sizing problems he’s had in the United States and Kelly has been able to broaden his range. Today, Kelly is at a juncture many American buyers are watching closely. “I know I’m known for giggly dresses,” he says, standing amid construction in his new showroom, “but I make everything.” They were lighthearted and - for French apparel - not expensive. The dresses instantly pegged him a fun designer. His playful, sexy rtw has received rave reviews from American customers ever since Bergdorf Goodman featured the cutout cotton knit tube dresses from his first collection in its Fifth Avenue windows two years ago. Penélope Cruz, Sadie Sink and More Attend the Chanel Soirée in Venice
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